Tag: St. Moritz

  • 2021 Europe: Day 8 – St. Moritz to Interlaken, & an evening in Gimmelwald

    2021 Europe: Day 8 – St. Moritz to Interlaken, & an evening in Gimmelwald

    I slept a good 7 hours, up a little after 5am. Ash got up about 6:30. I got Saturday’s blog posted and we went out in search of coffee. There aren’t patisseries on every corner here as we got used to in Paris and even Zermatt. Ash found something close that opened at 7:30 so we made our way out.

    Hanselmann’s was just about a block away. While the name didn’t do anything for us, we recognized it immediately from our walk the evening before. The plan was just to go in for coffee since we were going to have leftover pizza for dessert. Somehow we forgot all about that by the time we walked in.

    It had just opened and we were the only ones here, and that remained true for our whole stay. Ash got a cappuccino and I got a latte. I loved that they had this gold cup holder shown above for the glass without a handle. It always baffles me when places serve hot coffee in regular glasses without handles so I was impressed by this simple addition. (I mean, why not just use something with a handle? But it looks cool, don’t it?)

    3 plates layered on a copper tray 3 stories high

    Ash ordered something called the Mountain Breakfast and I ordered muesli. They brought his first. When we saw it was a literal mountain of food we cancelled my cereal. This was more than enough for both of us.

    Our waitress was lovely and had this very dry sense of humor that we enjoyed. Seems like almost everyone here speaks English, French and German so language isn’t a barrier. All public announcements (like on trains) are done in all 3 languages. The Swiss don’t have their own language. Italian is also common, and menus so far are all in multiple languages also (all on one menu).

    Our view at breakfast.

    Our train wasn’t until 10am so we got some steps in since we would be on the road most of the day.

    We made our way back to the other side of town again (it’s a small town).

    This river is crystal clear.

    Ash on an escalator

    We went back for our luggage and made our way downhill to the train station. On our walk the evening before we discovered the easier ways the city had for navigating the hills, which we’d missed the day before.

    The first part of our train ride took us back through the Alps region we’d been in the day before.

    I couldn’t resists a couple of more shots. Focus on that lightly snow covered mountain in the distance and you’ll get a sense of how huge this valley is. And of course a little church just right of center.

    It was 2 hours to Chur and then a train change to Zurich. This is a lake called Walensee. It’s pretty big and the train ran beside it for awhile. After about 90 minutes we had another train change in Zurich and in another 9 minutes were at the airport.

    We’d made arrangements with Europcar for a rental. Meet Vanessa. She was lovely and listened to her co-worker’s suggestion to “give them the convertible” despite us asking for the cheapest thing they had. Our story is: the co-worker, not pictured, was gay and decided to do us a solid. That’s our story anyway. It continued our good luck with rentals – in Paris they’d upgraded us to an Audi because it was Ash’s birthday!

    Here’s the cute Fiat convertible we got for the week. Due to construction, an accident, and a wrong turn, we had a terrible but hilarious time getting out of Zurich but were finally on our way. This was about 2 hours after we left the airport and stopped for a much needed break which included restroom, a sandwich we split and a Coke Zero.

    Dining on the left, stairs on the right, living room in the background center.

    We made it to our apartment in Interlaken by about 5:15pm. It’s wonderful.

    kitchen

    We are here for 3 nights.

    This is huge for a European apartment.

    A lovely balcony; if it were warmer right now I’d be sitting there, currently 57. But it was 81 when we got here so I’m sure I’ll get a chance. By the way, it was 37 when we woke up in St. Moritz this morning. Very glad I found the hoody!

    bedroom

    There are 2 bedrooms upstairs but this is the one we’re sleeping in. The other wasn’t made up so we’re using it essentially as a closet.

    The view from our window.

    There are 2 full bathrooms, this is the one upstairs.

    The other view of the living room. By this time I’d gone around the corner to the Coop for a few groceries while Ash was showering, etc. so was enjoying a lazy moment.

    We were back on the road by about 6:15pm, headed to Gimmelwald, a little town of about 130 people, at about 4500 feet on that mountain in front of you.

    The views here are just breathtaking.

    Just a random waterfall on our way to dinner.

    We parked the car in a little town called Stechelberg. You can’t actually drive to Gimmelwald – the only way in is a gondola. Why dinner somewhere so remote? We were on a mission.

    Those of you who’ve been following for a few years may remember the Europe trip I did by myself in 2018. I’d returned via New York City for a few nights. When sharing the plans of my trip with my friend Art, we discovered we were both going to be in NYC at the same time, and each had a full day with no plans. So we made them – and had a great day of Downtown Abbey, the Empire State Building, and a show, which you can read about here.

    So a few months ago when Art and I were sharing upcoming travel adventures, we discovered that we were going to be roughly in the same part of Switzerland at the same time, so we decided to had to figure out a way to meet up. Originally we were just going to meet for lunch in Interlaken as he made his way from Gimmelwald to Lucerne. But the idea of dinner in Gimmelwald was much more appealing, so that lead to the change in travel plans I’d mentioned a few entries ago which resulted in only one night in St. Moritz (which was more than enough) and us renting a car so we’d have more flexibility. It all worked out great in the end.

    Our ride up the gondola. These guys were talking about doing jumps off the mountain.

    The view out the front of the gondola.

    Art took a little video of us arriving. Gimmelwald is the first stop the gondola makes on its way up the mountain. What you’ll see in the video is how perfectly timed the cars are: we’re arriving from the bottom, and the car coming from Murren above is arriving at exactly the same time. When we were leaving that happened again, and the folks from Murren simply had to walk across the platform to quickly continue their journey down the mountain. Brilliant.

    Art made dinner reservations at Pension Gimmelwald for 7pm.

    Art was kind enough to let us have the seats with the view. What a view, eh?

    photo of Ash and me with the mountains in the background.

    We changed seats for this shot

    Art described this place as “eating at someone’s house.” There was no menu, you got what they were serving. First course was a bean salad with barley.

    No idea was this was called but it was delicious. Herbed rice with pork in a stroganoff sort of sauce with some spice tomato something on top. It was a wonderful mix of flavors.

    Dessert was a simple brownie with some whipped cream.

    There was a young couple from Albuquerque dining there as well and they took this photo. We’ve encountered a lot of Americans on this trip.

    Art showed us around Gimmelwald a bit. We were able to get decent photos despite it being almost dark at 8:30pm.

    You could hear that water flowing down that mountain from here.

    We went to a barn that had a self-service refrigerator where you could buy fresh milk and cheese – the primary goods made here on the mountain. Art said you hear cowbells all throughout the day.

    Said milk and cheese which we’ll have for breakfast this morning. I’ve never had milk this fresh before so looking forward to it.

    We have 2 full days in Interlaken and not a thing planned which makes me terribly happy. “Interlaken” translates to “between 2 lakes” which it is, so I’m sure we’ll come up with something fun and beautiful.

  • 2021 Europe: Day 7 – Zermatt to St. Moritz via the Glacier Express

    2021 Europe: Day 7 – Zermatt to St. Moritz via the Glacier Express

    For Saturday we really just had one thing on the agenda: a train to St. Moritz that would take most of the day. But this particular train is called the Glacier Express, and it takes you through the Swiss Alps in a beautiful way.

    I was up about 4am and got Friday’s blog posted before Ash got up. And with that I was finally back on my regular schedule again. We packed what little we had unpacked just for 2 nights, had strawberries, cheese and bread for breakfast and made our way out about 8am.

    A guy had asked us to take a photo of him and his wife so he returned the favor.

    They equipped you with a map, information about the ride (291 bridges and 91 tunnels!) which is 181 miles long, and earphones to use with their sound system. You could plug them into your seat, select your language, and a gong would sound when there was some presentation about the area you were passing. It was well done (although after awhile I started to feel a little like Pavlov’s dog).

    The main attraction was the view. This was our first glacier early in the trip and there were several. It’s actually pretty hard to get decent photos due to glare from the windows and how quickly things change. Despite it’s name, however, it’s not a high speed train. “Express” refers to the lack of stops it makes compared to a local train. The like to refer to it as “the slowest express train in the world.”

    All luggage is stored at floor level because the train is designed for viewing. Originally our seats were with the two woman on the left one row up. But these 8 seats on the end were empty at the start, and the conductor verified that the section where Ash is now would be empty the whole time so we moved. It was perfect.

    I pretty little river flowed next to us much of the way.

    We left around 9am. These folks joined across the way around 11am. We joked at the end of the trip we should have counted how many churches we saw. Over

    salads and bread now on the table.

    There was decent food available and they started serving lunch around 11:45am with the last course served around 1:30pm.

    This is one of my favorite shots, I was able to get a decent perspective on an entire valley (there were hundreds like this) without any window glare.

    This was a chicken stroganoff with rice and perfectly booked carrots. It was fine comfort food (and I mean that in the best way!).

    A cheese course.

    Apple cake and vanilla sauce.

    A little bit of the river again. At some point the audio presentation said “we are now on the Rhine” and I couldn’t believe it. I looked at the map on my phone and sure enough it named the river Vorderrhein. As I followed it along it changed to just Rhine and snaked its way around and up to Germany along a path I’ve been several times from Mainz to Cologne. It blew my mind that it was the same river.

    Ash looking seriously at something.

    I zoomed in on this to try to omit some of the glare but clearly didn’t work! There’s a lovely little remote church thought.

    guys in kayaks on the beach of the river about to go in

    I have to believe that waster is very cold.

    The couple left around 3pm I think and the guy by himself changed sides because after last stopped we changed directions. The train back tracks a little before taking a turn to head to St. Moritz. Ash moved to next to me as well so that he wasn’t riding backwards. But that view out the window is pretty representative of what we watched for 7.5 hours.

    Another lovely village without too much glare.

    They are very proud of this bridge, the Landwasser Viaduct, built between 1901 and 1902.

    We arrived at the train station in St. Moritz on time.

    Ash suggested a taxi but Google Maps indicated it was just a 12 minute walk so I wanted to do that since we’d literally been sitting all day. I didn’t know then it was 12 minutes uphill. Every step. That’s Ash on the left. Nice view though, huh?

    room showing the bed

    Our room is small but we’re just here for one night. The original plan was two nights but that changed on the way to Zermatt. I’ll cover the details of what changed as we go through the rest of the trip.

    Room showing the kitchen area

    And it’s good we’re only here one night given the size here and there doesn’t seem to be much to do when there’s no snow, but it’s beautiful.

    This is the building our room is in. It’s a studio apartment.

    We made reservations for dinner at an Italian place literally across the street from where we’re staying and walked around for about 90 minutes. We are staying in the sort of admin and shopping district of the town.

    St. Moritz is a playground for the wealthy, especially during the winter, given its easy access to snow yet somehow has sun almost 300 days a year. Today wasn’t necessarily one of those days. It also hosted the winder Olympics in 1928 and 1948. You’ll see that church behind Ash again in a bit.

    Decorative St Moritz sign in the middle of a roundabout next to the lake, with mountains and town in the background.

    We made our way to the lake and walked by it to get to the older section of town which you see there center and left.

    Pretty, no? It gets better.

    The sky behind us was clearing up a bit and it made for a beautiful reflection on the water.

    That’s the same church in the middle we’d walked by earlier.

    Stunning if I do say so myself. This will go down as one of my favorite photos of the trip.

    We’d made our way to the other side of town but decided when we got here that it was more interesting from a distance!, and made our way back to dinner.

    But snapped a few more photos along the way.

    We loved the architecture and gardens of this building. we think it’s apartments.

    We went to La Stalla. I started with their signature salad which included prosciutto.

    Ash had the tomato soup which was lovely.

    We both got pizzas. Mine was spicy salami and gorgonzola.

    Ash’s had black olives, mushrooms, artichokes, ham. We didn’t realize they would be this big and only ate half, the rest will be breakfast this morning.

    As has been our experience because we eat early for these parts, it was empty when we got there at 7pm and packed when we left around 8:20pm.

    We came back to our room. Ash watched a little TV while I uploaded the photos and we were in bed by 10pm. All that sitting in a train all day was exhausting!

    Today will be another travel day: a train ride to Zurich, and then we’re renting a car to go to Interlaken. That was the big change we made while coming into Zermatt – getting a car. More on that as the trip continues….