We have in some ways been planning this trip since we first went to Africa in 2023. That was the first time we’d used National Geographic’s travel arm, going on a 10-day safari which included the Okavango Delta, something that had been on Ash’s bucket list (but which at the time I’d never heard of).
We made 2 decisions on that trip about future travel:
- We would definitely use National Geographic again. While I was shocked with what we initially paid for that trip, when it was over I was like “and it was worth double that.” The level of the experience so far exceeded expectations on every level – including lodging, food, and maybe most importantly the experience of the guides – that we were completely sold on the model. We’ve done one other trip using NatGeo since then (Machu Picchu & Galapagos last year) and have 4 more booked through 2027.
- We would return to the Okavango Delta. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is an amazing expanse of protected wilderness in Botswana. When we were there in May of 2023, there was no water, which was disappointing but still provided a stunning experience, just one that was different than expected. Why the water wasn’t there then is a complicated answer that I’ll skip for now. Suffice it to say it has to do with changing climates and increased civilization upriver. The timing of this trip was influenced by 2 factors: as far into the season as we could go to help ensure the presence of water, pushing against the school schedules of the family members who will be joining us for that portion of the trip. More on that when we get there. And yes: there is water now. So we will see when we get there how that changes things compared to last time.
So that’s why this trip at this time. We will only be in the Okavango for a few days at the end of the trip and are starting in Mozambique and Eswatini. No particular reason for those choices other than: we hear they are beautiful, have great food, and haven’t been there before. So, let’s go!
We left our home Saturday evening just before 6pm. We wouldn’t get to our first stop until about 4pm local time on Monday, which with the time change would have been 7am Monday at home. That’s 37 hours total of travel, of which about 23 was spent in the air. That makes this the longest travel day for me, and 2nd longest for Ash. And it started with our friend, Mark, driving us to SFO in San Francisco where we began. He’s also housesitting for us. This was our drop off.




We had access to a lounge through Priority Pass. It was pretty big and had an OK food selection, which was good since our plan was to have our dinner there. We boarded on time for a 10:35pm flight to Atlanta. We’d hoped to sleep on this leg but neither of us did. We had a 3-hour layover in Atlanta, lounge access again, then had a 10:30am flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. This leg was 13.5 hours although it seemed longer. We were grateful to have business class seats. It was an older plane so not the swankiest we’ve had but certainly better than economy. Ash had found business class all the way using miles.

The first leg was on United. The next two ere Ethiopian Airlines. We were presented with a menu which described the choices we would have for meals. This leg had full meals at the start and end, with a snack in between. I could spend a lot of time talking about the food, with photos, but decided that, at least for this leg, while it was very good, it wasn’t that interesting. Since the flight is originating in Atlanta, it’s catering to an American taste profile. Exceptions noted below.

They started the first meal with local snacks, which included a bowl of roasted grains and what they called crackers. Both unique to us and tasty. But the real hit was a list of non-alcoholic drinks on the menu. We both got virgin pina coladas which were amazing and, at least for me, the best taste of that leg. Great flavor and super creamy.

The menu also included this whole story about the origins of coffee. A goat shepherd from the province of Kaffa Ethiopia noticed his goats acting strangely after eating coffee beans. Monks from the monastery thought the beans must be from the devil and threw them into the fire. They were entranced by the aroma which led to brewing, which led to them being able to stay focused longer through prayer and meditation. That lead to sacred culture around having coffee that still exists today. This story didn't include any dates, but a little research suggests the legend of the goatherder goes back to about 500 AD.
All that to say: The coffee service on this leg and the one that followed was very satisfying.
We had a beautiful sunrise on this leg, thankfully muted by blue tinted windows.




We always like to follow the flight map when available. Ash was very excited to be flying over the Nile River. We landed in Addis Ababa mostly on time. The landscape was a beautiful patchwork of green and brown. Addis Ababa has a population of 6million.
We landed a little later than scheduled which made what was supposed to be just a 50-minute layover go very quickly. We got to our gate just as they started boarding, which included a bus ride to the plane way on the other side of the airport. We boarded from the tarmac.



On our final leg we were presented with another menu from the same template as the other, but different choices. This was more local which we appreciated. Starting with smoked salmon on the left. We were then presented with traditional Ethiopian options, what we would call comfort food. This was what I was hoping for, being a fan of Ethiopian places I've eaten at back home. In the middle - you could pick as little or as much as you wanted from the options in the cart. I got everything but the lamb - so chicken and vegetable choices. Ash got everything that wasn't spicy. It was served on injera bread, seen in the last photo, which is more like a pancake than anything. You tear pieces off and use that to eat with. This was very satisfying.



We landed in Maputo, Mozambique, on time about 2pm locally. We got through customs fine after having to pay for a 30-day visa, which we expected. We had a whole thing about the car rental which I'll skip, but which ended up with us using a different agency than planned. We were just thankful the one next door had a car available, and a lovely woman working there who was super helpful. On the left, she is going over the small Toyota (a model we don't have in the US) with Ash.
We got to our hotel a little before 4pm. We are staying here just one night, then 2 nights in Eswatini, then will be back here for 4 nights. This is the lobby in the center, with a photo of the center of a long veranda which extends the width of the property. You'll see that fountain again in a bit.



The bell guy walked us to our room, which we were glad for as it was quite a winding way from the lobby. They put us in room at the far end of the property and somewhat detached from the main hotel. But these came with their own verandas which we will enjoy quite a bit, including watching the sunrise already early this morning.
We essentially dropped our bags and went out to explore.

At the center of this photo is that fountain again, just seen from the far end by the water.


On the left, Ash enjoying the beautiful Indian Ocean. There's an incredible breeze coming off of it that's almost like nothing I've experienced, although reminded me of the breeze in the Galapagos which was also amazing. There's a quality to the air - both in texture and temperature - that's comforting in a way that's hard to describe.

Just to give you a little idea of where we were standing on the planet at that moment.

The formal dinner time was 7pm. It wasn't quite 5pm yet but we were so tired we didn't think we'd make it until 7pm. Neither of us got much sleep on any of the slights, although both of us slept the most on the last one. Thankfully, the restaurant is open all day, so we were able to get a table with a great view.


Ash had the seafood soup to start, on the left. I had a Caesar salad on the right.

We shared a grilled seafood platter meant for 2, which included lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels, calamari, fries and rice, and a variety of vegetables. Perfect.
And that is how we began. We are happy to be here and excited about what's coming. And glad that you are coming with us!
And by the way, if you haven't checked out the Home Page of my blog recently, please do. I've added a fun interactive map and an improved menu that helps you zero in on where you want to go. I’d love to hear what you think.
And, if you're a regular reader from Facebook but have not subscribed, please do! That has been made easier, as well. (See the big Subscribe button in the menu bar....) Eventually I may move away from Facebook, so I want to make sure we stay connected.
4 Comments
I'd love to hear from you!
Subscribe to the Blog
Enter your email address to subscribe to my blog, which will provide notifications of new posts. Soon after you enter your email address below, you will receive one to confirm your subscription. Check your spam/junk folder if you don’t see it.
I love living this experience, vicariously through your words.
I must say that seems like a very long time in the air ….. I’m so glad you both are safe and LIVING LIFE!!
While nothing takes the place of watching your face while you tell me about these travels, this is great. Enjoy loves. Xoxo
Good morning or whatever it is there 🤪 what a travel day. My max is 24 hrs. You did 37 was it? Holy crap! I love your new home page. The map is clever and practical to move you to different continents and then each journey within it. It’s nice!!!
It is mid afternoon here and we just finished a late lunch. Yes, it was quite the travel day. The lazies have set in and we’re not gonna do much the rest of the day.